I want something that would be capable of print speeds north of 150 mm/s and not have surface artifacts like ringing.
#THINGIVERSE HYPERCUBE MODS#
How stiff does the frame really need to be? I have seen that BLV recommends 2040 for his BLV Cube, but after talking a look at his mods for an Ender 3, I feel he tends to overkill. I am looking at the Hypercube Evo design with 3030 extrusion, or one of it's EVO 2020 variant or. I see all kinds of suggestions on what type of extrusion to use - 2020, 2040, 3030. RPi4 for Otcopi/Astrobox remote and "off site" control Linear rails, at least for the X&Y (probably cheap amazon ones, and not HWIN, primarily due to price)īTT V35 screen, because I want touch for somethings, but miss having a wheel control and ability to cancel prints without having to jump inot an app or web browser. What I would like to use, or plan to use: I plan on mostly PLA, and some PETG and flexables, but I am not really looking to do ABS, PC, or other high temp stuff. I am giving a lot of thought to building a Core XY machine, and I have questions, and things I need to know before taking the jump.
Without belts installed, both the X and Y move freely with no binding (Y with gravity, X needs some assistance due to the bushings, but it's not exactly difficult to move). Parts were printed on a crappy Chinese i3 clone, they came out functional but far from perfect. If it helps, it's a standard build (200mm³ print size), 2020 extrusion, 10mm carbon fibre w/polymer bushings, 8mm (7.96) steel rods w/LM8LUU bearings, held together with those crappy Banggood brackets (maybe this is part of the problem?). Being the first large print I've done I thought I'd test the movement first and noticed the wandering. I didn't really notice the problem initially as I was only printing small parts, but it arose the other day whilst preparing to print a large (180x100 ish) piece. I've tried multiple combinations of belt tension tight, loose, one tight one loose etc. Same goes for the Y axis home X & Y, start moving along the Y and the carriage moves to the right the further away from home I go (and again, disengages the X endstop at around 30mm from home). It's a good couple of mm or so movement at either end, enough to disengage the Y endstop at around 40mm of X travel. For example, if I home X & Y, then start moving the carriage along the X axis, the right bearing block starts moving towards me and the left one away. There's a slight twist somewhere that's causing the X/Y carriage to wander somewhat at the extremities of the bed.
Da Vinci uses a lot of Torx screws, having a Trox bit set with different sizes helps a lot.So I've just taken my 'cube completely apart and started to rebuild from scratch, on a flat glass table, making sure to align/square the frame as best I could (armed only with a set square) and I'm still running in to the same problem. Strip all the covers, top, side, bottom, extruder, and everything, leaving only the frame.
#THINGIVERSE HYPERCUBE HOW TO#
Tech2C has a great channel and tutorials about how to assemble a Hypercube so I am not going into details. Additional aluminum extrusion for the bed and make up the entire frame.Ĭonverting Da Vinci to a RAMP based printer is very common and fairly straight forward, it has been covered many times in the soliforum forum, but I haven’t seen anyone turn it into a Hypercube. Motor for Z axis with T8 lead screw from AliExpressħ.
Glass print bed if you do not need heated bedĥ. Together with the cable from the Da Vinci. All Optical endstop can be reused with modification, pins are identified here, Bottom cover of the Da Vinci jr, keep the plate where Y axis motor is mounted.ĥ. Here is a list of what has been salvaged from the Da Vinci and used in HyperCubeĢ.
0 kommentar(er)
